Water hidden in the closet, or drought sewn without measure

When you put on a new T-shirt, you probably don’t think about the fact that it could fill several thousand bottles of water. And yet – that’s exactly how much it takes to produce it. The water footprint of clothing is one of the least noticed, yet most dramatic exposures of modern fashion. We talk to Aleksandra Wlodarczyk, an expert in sustainable fashion, about how the clothing industry is draining the world’s water resources, what the threat of fast fashion is, and why recycling is often just a marketing smokescreen.

Agnieszka Hobot: Garment production requires huge amounts of water – from the cultivation of cotton to the processes of dyeing and finishing fabrics. Is environmental awareness growing among consumers, or do we still treat clothing only as a final product, without thinking about its impact on the environment?

Aleksandra Wlodarczyk: Consumer awareness of issues related to the apparel industry is growing, and this is not only thanks to activists and NGOs, but also increasingly thanks to mass media. Topics concerning the environmental, social and health burdens associated with the textile and apparel industry are being addressed with increasing frequency. Unfortunately, general public awareness is still at a relatively low level – it is insufficient.

It is worth noting that there is a significant discrepancy between predictions and actual purchasing decisions. Although Poles declare a desire to buy clothes more responsibly, price still plays a key role when making the final decision. We have normalized cheap and frequent clothing purchases for ourselves, taking them for granted. Meanwhile, fast fashion comes at the expense of massive exploitation of natural resources, massive environmental pollution, human rights violations in manufacturing countries and negative impacts on consumer health.

A.H.: In the context of water footprint, cotton is often mentioned, but are there other processes that put as much of a strain on water resources? Which elements of production can be optimized to reduce excessive water consumption?

A.W.: The latest report from the European Environment Agency in March of this year reveals that the apparel industry in the European Union ranks fourth in terms of water consumption, after food, construction and restaurants and hotels. Although per capita consumption increased by 15 percent between 2010 and 2022, water consumption remained virtually unchanged (down 1 percent) during that time. The intensity of water consumption in the textile industry fell by 15 percent, but this was offset by an increase in consumption volumes, so there was no absolute decline in per capita water consumption.

Global annual water demand in the textile industry is estimated at 93 billion^{cubic meters}. The fashion industry’s water footprint includes not only direct consumption, but also indirect consumption, such as in the production of chemicals. Conventional cotton is indeed the most water-intensive fiber, accounting for 69 percent of their water footprint, but water is used at virtually every stage of production, from cleaning, bleaching, mercerization and finishing, as well as during use, i.e. washing the garment.

The industry’s water challenges include not only high water consumption, but also water pollution. The main factors shaping the global impact of pollution are dyeing and finishing, yarn preparation and fiber production.

We have access to technologies that can reduce water consumption and reduce the use of hazardous chemicals. One example is the production of organic cotton, which uses more than 90 percent less water than conventional cotton. Closed-loop processes, such as a friendlier version of viscose or lyocell, are worth noting. However, the widespread development of these technologies is being held back by their high price.

A.H.: It is well known that the production of cheap clothing takes place mainly in developing countries, where the problem of water scarcity and water quality is already huge. How much does fast fashion contribute to the global water crisis and what are the consequences for local communities?

A.W.: To meet the huge demand for water in the textile industry, about 180 million^{m3 of} groundwater is extracted annually. Unfortunately, the restoration of these resources takes many years and does not keep up with current demand, which makes groundwater considered a non-renewable resource.

One example of the negative impact of excessive groundwater extraction is in Bangladesh’s capital, Dhaka. There, the groundwater level has dropped by more than 60 meters in the last 50 years and continues to decline. This is depleting a valuable resource and causing land subsidence. Groundwater plays a key role in supporting layers of rock and soil, so its lowering can lead to gradual land subsidence, posing a serious threat to buildings and infrastructure.

In addition, excessive groundwater extraction, combined with erratic precipitation caused by climate change, can increase the salinity of water and soil, altering entire ecosystems. Another dramatic example is the Aral Sea, which has decreased in volume by 90 percent over several decades due to cotton cultivation in these areas. Today, where once there was life, a desert stretches out.

A.H.: Are there technologies or strategies in the apparel industry to reduce water consumption and pollution? What changes in the industry can we realistically expect in the coming years?

A.W.: Changes in the apparel industry, whether they relate to water consumption, greenhouse gas emissions or human rights, require the cooperation and informed approach of three parties: business, consumers and legislators. Currently, the biggest barrier to implementing innovative and resource-efficient solutions is their price, which is higher compared to traditional methods. Water-saving technologies exist and are becoming more effective, but their use depends on the commitment of all parties. Both companies and consumers must be willing to pay more for clothes, and governments should implement this change in a thoughtful manner.

In an economic crisis, this is extremely difficult, and reaching the goal is bound to be prolonged. We have become accustomed to cheap clothing, and changing habits takes time. The European Commission has made a huge effort to regulate the industry, preparing and implementing the Strategy EU for Sustainable Textiles in a Closed Circuit, which aims to move away from fast fashion by 2030.

Currently, unfortunately, Europe and the United States are flooded with cheap clothing from Chinese platforms, so the pressure on prices is even greater. Global giants are entering this war, looking for ways to compete. I’m optimistic, but I’m sad to say that this change will take longer than we anticipated.

A.H.: Can clothing recycling really significantly reduce pressure on water resources, or is it more of a marketing ploy that doesn’t solve the problem of overproduction?

A.W.: Recycling is an important component, but there are many more strategies within the circular economy that focus on at least extending the life cycle of products. Such examples of business models include repairs, rentals or clothing as a service. Recycling should be the final step when the clothing is completely unusable.

The circular economy is the direction we all want to go, but it has been known for years that only 1 percent of clothing is recycled and made into new clothes. And this, unfortunately, is not changing and is due to the fact that innovative technologies are difficult to scale and more expensive. So we need informed engagement, both from companies and consumers. Widespread environmental education is essential to begin to change the paradigms that govern today’s world. Overproduction and overconsumption are the primary problems of the fashion industry, from which the consequences scale in every field.

Recycling is an important solution, but not the only one. Unfortunately, as with plastic, it has become a source of greenwashing. Journalistic investigations have shown that clothing collected in stores does not always end up where it should.

A.H.: How can we reduce our water footprint in the closet?

A.W.: The first piece of advice I always give is to be minimalist and only buy things that we will love for years to come, with reciprocity… Fashion can be fun, joyful and empowering! This joy should come from quality, durability and style, not from constant shopping, which is often the result of a difficult day, fatigue or stress.

Secondhand clothing, organic cotton, linen, hemp, EcoVero-labeled viscose or Tencel-labeled lyocell are certainly choices that save water. However, this reduction in consumption has a real impact on reducing the water footprint, both in production and use. Minimalism in fashion not only reduces waste, but also promotes a more sustainable approach to fashion that prioritizes quality and sustainability.

A.H.: Is responsible fashion the future or just a niche trend?

A.W.: In my estimation, the trend of sustainable development in the fashion industry will develop at different speeds. Although the road ahead is long, we have no other option. Our planet has its limits, which we are increasingly crossing. The fashion industry is one of the leading industries with the greatest impact on climate, natural resources, land use, pollution and people. Therefore, a transformation to more sustainable practices is inevitable and necessary for the future of our planet.

A.H.: Many brands are declaring a shift to greener processes, but is this a real change or just a marketing strategy? What are the real chances that fashion will become more environmentally friendly and water will no longer be a hidden cost?

A.W.: In many cases, especially in low-cost fast fashion brands, many pro-environmental measures do not contribute to real change, and are often greenwashing, such as the previously mentioned second-hand clothing garbage cans. For real change, we need real commitment. Unfortunately, on the business side you still don’t see it, or at least not on a large scale. Often these are piecemeal and one-off actions that mainly have image overtones. Of course, this is not an easy task, especially given the complexity of supply chains and the fact that the vast majority of environmental and social impacts arise where brands have limited leverage. However, it can’t be said that this removes their responsibility. A well-thought-out sustainability strategy is key to successfully implementing change.

I believe the industry needs a much longer timeframe than the 2030 assumed by the European Commission. However, it is legislative action at the EU level that sends a strong signal to companies that the days of reckless growth at the expense of the well-being of the planet and all of us are passing. It is this top-down pressure that is most effective in mobilizing business to act responsibly. Until now, companies have not taken into account that a changing climate could directly affect their business. The recently introduced CSRD requires companies to conduct a dual materiality analysis, in which they must consider not only their impact on the environment and people, but also the potential financial risks from climate change, for example. This allows managements to quickly understand that without a healthy planet, there is no business.

Aleksandra Wlodarczyk – an expert in sustainable fashion, founder of the Conscious Fashion Consumer portal and Fashion Futures – a company that supports apparel companies in sustainable product strategies.